The Content Blender

Removing the Stock Air Intake System on a Victory Motorcycle

With the basic need of all motorcyclists being the need for more horsepower. I decided to upgrade my Victory motorcycle from the stock air intake to a custom aftermarket air filter. Why? The stock air boxes are often too restrictive. They do not allow enough air to freely flow into the engine. The Victory stock air box is a mechanical suction. The air is sucked in through the left side of the coffin like air box. There are a few modifications that can be done to the stock filter to get a direct flow of air into the throttle bodies. But these require drilling ugly 1-inch holes in the front of your cheap looking plastic air box.

The theory behind this is that you will be producing a Ram-Air effect. This is where fresh yummy colder air gets forced in through the strategically drilled holes. Free flowing is the key, no ninety-degree turns and bends for the air to travel. This is all good, but you are still limited by what the stock Victory air box can provide. Especially when you upgrade the exhaust. With such an upgrade, you will need to be ingesting more air for the exhaust to work at its peak performance.

The other benefit of removing the stock air box and replacing it with a high-performance custom air box, is the esthetics of the look of the new air box in place of the stock air box. Some aftermarket high-performance air filter kits, like the Eaglecat, make your Victory look like a custom motorcycle once it is installed. This alone is reason enough to do the air box upgrade.

Having given the reasons why, let’s now discuss the technical procedure for removing your stock Victory air box. We will follow up by showing you how to install one of the many aftermarket performance air box kits.

Victory Air Intake System Removal Instructions

Removal of plastic stock cleaner system, use owners manual if needed.

1. Remove side covers from bike (side covers pop on and off).

2. Remove seat by unscrewing (2) mounting bolts 6 mm allen head.

3. Remove gas tank rubber mounting bolt covers front right and left.

4. Remove gas tank mounting bolts (2) front and (1) rear 8 mm allen head.

5. Lift rear of gas tank slightly disconnect electrical connector and disconnect vent hose.

6. Loosen fuel line hose clamp and disconnect main fuel line, remove gas tank.

7. Disconnect and remove air temperature sensor.

8. Remove map sensor disconnect wires.

9. Remove air box cover (5) screws, lift out intake tubes.

10. Remove air filter cover and filter.

11. Disconnect crank case breather hose from air box.

12. Using a sharp gasket scraper or chisel and a small hammer split and separate stock plastic air box at it’s seam. Remove top portion of plastic air box.

13. Unscrew (4) mounting screws that hold air box to throttle body. Remove bottom portion of plastic air box, save rubber gasket between plastic box and throttle body. You will be reusing this rubber gasket.

EagleCat EC-VAIR Air Intake System Install Instructions

(Note fuel injected bikes) aftermarket air cleaners are designed to be used with a fuel controller unit such as TFI / PC or factory mapping upgrades to prevent possible damage to the engine. Aftermarket air cleaners are also designed to be used with aftermarket exhaust systems or slip on mufflers for performance gain).

Installation of new air cleaner system.

NOTE SECOND GENERATION CAT BOX HAS REVERSE THE MAPPING AND TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOCATIONS

1. Remove top plate and filter of new air cleaner system.

2. Cut stock crank case hose, remove approximately a 5 inch section (you might want to mock up new crank case hose extension to get correct length needed).

3. Attach crank case hose extension to the hose you just cut using barbed nipple provided. Route hose extension to connect to barbed nipple mounted on underside of new air cleaner mounting plate.

4. Relocate map sensor to underside of new air cleaner bottom mounting plate using screw provided to secure it in place.

5. Reinstall stock rubber gasket between throttle body and new air cleaner bottom mounting plate.

6. Attach new bottom mounting plate with (4) 6 mm taper head screws provided, tighten (4) screws to 30 in-lb torque.

7. Install new air filter and top plate, (Note when installing top plate carefully tighten (2) mounting screws evenly.

8. install air temperature sensor into top plate notched hole, insert and turn.

9. Twist throttle grip a few times while checking throttle return pulley clearance.

10. De-pin stock gray female connector that was originally connected to map sensor. (Be careful you will be reusing these items)

11. Insert same (3) pins into the A B C port positions located on new female connector attached to new map sensor extension harness provided.

12. Route new map sensor extension harness in convenient manner to reach map sensor located on underside of new bottom mounting plate.

13. Insert extension harness pins into A B C port positions on stock gray female connector from line (10) above, connect female connector to map sensor located on underside of new bottom mounting plate.

14. Install gas tank vent line, electrical harness and main fuel line.

15. Install gas tank bolts and rubber bolt covers.

16. Reinstall seat and side covers.

17. Turn ignition on check for fuel leaks before starting engine.

18. No fuel leaks start engine.

Enjoy your new throttle response and power. Performance Matters

Contributing author to Cycle Solutions
http://www.cyclesolutions.net

Technical research performed on Kingpin Cruisers
http://www.kingpincruisers.net

When I bought my Victory Kingpin motorcycle I knew it had fuel injection instead of an air/fuel carburetor. Then I saw the EFI emblem on the side covers. Ok. what exactly is that? So I looked it up. EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection. Much like you get with most cars. But is that really better? I read on and found that the EFI system that Victory’s Freedom V-Twin engine uses provides for a modern, powerful, reliable, and sure-starting system. The EFI is used instead of a carberator because the EFI delivers the correct fuel and air mixture at all times and will adjust itself automatically, via its sensors, to the changing conditions that the Freedom engine will face during operation.

The Concept of the EFI

An electronic fuel injection system uses a microprocessor to compare information it receives from sensors to a predetermined, stored set of values called maps. The EFI then decides when and for how long it should supply fuel to the engine and when to fire the spark plugs. Most EFI systems are completely maintenance free.

The EFI sensors will monitor the engines operation and send data to the engine control unit or ECU. The sensorsb report on all variables of the engines operation. The ECU will process this data and deliver the correct fuel mixture for the current conditions. The benefits are increased power, optimal and efficient fuel burn which means lesser emissions and better gas mileage.

For optimal performance, the EFIs are tunable. The factory will progam the EFI to run lean. Lean conditions may cause decreased running performance and back fires. A lean condition will also means less emissions which satisfies the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) requirements. There are aftermarket modules you can buy that wire into your ECU which will allow you fine tune your EFI system without having to reflash/remap the ECU. What is reflashing? When the Victory dealer installs any performance mods to your bike, they have to reflash the ECU by connecting a computer to the bike. Thy have to downlaod the corect flash software then send this software to the ECU’s computer chip. If add performance parts and do not have the ECU reflashed, the EFI will not deliver the proper fuelb supply causing degradation in performance.

Contributing author to Cycle Solutions
http://www.cyclesolutions.net

Is your motorcycle’s chain squeaking or dry? Before you undertake any type of a small maintenance job, it is best to consult the owner’s manual specific to your type of bike. Most manuals will make recommendations on chain oiling, but when there are none available please consider the following. The amount of lubrication that you apply to your motorcycle chain and the frequency of the application basically depends upon where you drive your motorcycle the most. If you do most of your riding on normal streets, your chain is not going to require much cleaning. WD-40 and a rag are about all you need to get this simple job done.

If you are using gear oil, make sure that the chain is warm before applying. The best time to apply the oil is after your last ride of the day and remember to use a brush and not the oil can. Also put something under the chain to catch the drips. It is a good idea to keep an old rag handy to wipe off any excess, then let it sit overnight. Remember if you are spraying WD-40 on a warm chain give it a couple of minutes to drip off, wipe off any excess, then feel free to ride anytime. If you prefer a spray-on lube, don’t over saturate, and be sure to spray the lube on the inside of the chain. When you ride your bike the next time, it will be flung out through the chain.

If you have an O-ring chain, it is best to lube it when it’s hot. Spray your lube directly at the center of the rollers and at the rear of the rear sprocket. Move the rear wheel ever so slowly and continue to apply and let dry. Motor oil and WD-40 are the easiest to clean up, but can also create a big mess when it comes time to fly off. If you use chain wax, this leaves the least amount of fly off, but it can build up after a while. When purchasing your bike remember to get a center stand. A good rule of thumb is to lube every 500 miles or so. Remember to keep the rest of your bike as clean as possible, and ride your bike right after oiling to work it in, and wipe away any excess afterwards.

By Terry Price - Remember to visit http://www.motorcycle-atv-exhaust.com/articles_1.html for other fun articles on motorcycles, motorcycle exhaust, and other performance enhancement products. Improve your acceleration and passing power like never before with Flowmaster exhaust! http://www.motorcycle-atv-exhaust.com/114-flowmaster-exhaust-system.html

The Schwinn mountain bike range includes excellent basic bikes, yet you don’t have to be too concerned about hefty price-tags. From the riding experience, to operating the gears, to applying the brakes, you are aware that Schwinn, biking, and quality are synonymous.

While every Schwinn mountain bike may not be well suited to very heavy off-road conditions, light trails are a breeze.

The Mesa Mountain Hardtail demonstrates that a quality offroad race bike, doesn’t have to bankrupt you.

This Schwinn mountain bike has among its impressive features an N’Litened Gold Label Custom Drawn aluminum frame, off-road Ride-Tuned geometry, and patented Epicenter seatstays. The well-known RockShox J1 fork allows custom-tuning of the suspension spring rate. The reassuring Hayes name on the brake system, signifies excellent stopping-power.

Just as a Schwinn mountain bike likes to be constantly on the move, the company is always changing, re-designing, and blazing new trails.

A new Schwinn mountain bike, the unisex Sierra Comfort DSX, is part of the range built for more upright use. The Schwinn Super Soft elastomer-foam saddle alone makes for one of the most comfortable rides! This Moss Green or Vapor Silver number features the Schwinn Custom Drawn ‘N’Litened Gold Label 26″ aluminum frame. The FLOATech dual suspension system makes for perfectly smooth use.

If you are a trail-duo, consider the Schwinn Mountain Bike Sierra Comfort Tandem. Handling is easy, with excellent control. This bike offers the same comfort level as the DSX, with the rear mounted on a suspension seatpost. It is available in Dark Silver Metallic, or Deep Forest Green.

The Schwinn Mountain Bike Rocket Full Suspension line has again caused other manufacturers to sit up and take notice! This high-performance range comes with an affordable price-tag. The Rocket LTD is the top-of-the-range ride, featuring an Iso-Drive suspended proprietary All-Mountain frame, and Manitou Black Platinum fork. The Shimano Hone 27-speed components, as well as brake system, offers safety and versatility.

The recreational hardtail Schwinn mountain bike range, includes the Frontier All Terrain line, consisting of the Frontier FS AL, the Frontier FS AL Sport, and the Frontier 26/24. These rugged bikes will give you many years of use. They feature Epicenter seatstays for ultimate brake performance. Shimano derailleurs ensure effortless shifting. Frontier tires respond well, whether on a trail, or on a pavement.

Schwinn doesn’t just do bikes! How does a Schwinn Jogging Stroller sound? You and your little one can still enjoy Schwinn, while waiting for him of her to grow into a good fit for a Schwinn mountain bike! You can also try a bicycle trailer, although this isn’t recommended for use on a rough trail…

Schwinn also offers a range of biking maintenance accessories, helmets, gloves, and apparel.

Founded in 1895, Schwinn is an American brand icon that is associated with quality and innovation. Whether you are a beginner, road, or trail user, the Schwinn mountain bike name is a good place to start.

Here’s to another century of the innovative Schwinn Mountain Bike!

For more information visit Best-Mountain-Biking.com

Rika Susan of Article-Alert.com researches, writes, and publishes full-time on the Web. Copyright of this article: 2006 Rika Susan. This article may be reprinted if the resource box and hyperlinks are left intact.

Maintain your Battery and check your charging system!

9 times out of 10 the reason why your bike won’t start is usually because of the battery condition or loose connections. A charging system failure is less likely but is still possible.

I will talk about both of them here.

First look at your battery connections. Check for obvious and easiest to fix problems first. A loose connection, poor ground etc. will likely cause intermittent operation of the starting and charging systems. If you find a loose connection and/or corrosion, clean the connections with a wire brush.

Before re-attaching apply a little grease to the contact points. The grease helps to prevent any of the white corrosion residues building up around the battery terminals.

Try and start her up now. You still have a problem? Go down to the mall and buy yourself a small electronic multimeter. (Make sure it has both AC and DC volt functions, as well as a continuity (or OHMS)function. Pull out the battery and set it on a counter. Set your multimeter to DC volts. Measure the Battery voltage by placing the red lead on the positive and the Black on the negative.

The voltage read should be around 12.5 volts (higher is OK) If the voltage is less than this it may indicate a poor battery. Notice I say, “may” here because the bike’s charging system might be at fault. In this case the battery will most likely be OK.

Confirm that the electrolyte level in each cell of the battery is good. Add distilled water only to cell’s with a low level. (Obviously you cannot add water to a maintenance free battery) Charge the battery overnight with a slow charger only. Motorcycle batteries cannot handle a fast charge. Make sure the charger only charges at a rate of 2 amps or less.

Install the battery and try and start her again. If she still won’t go buy a new battery and your problem will likely be fixed. If she starts and runs like a charm, then you have to find out why the battery went dead. You need to check the charging system.

With the engine running, place the multimeter leads on the battery. Rev the engine a little. The system voltage should rise with engine RPM. A voltage of around 13.5 to about 14.5 should be displayed. If the voltage stays constant and/or is slowly decreasing, or if the voltage rises above 14.7 volts the charging system is not functioning.

What do you do now? You have to check two things. The Stator and the Regulator. The stator creates an AC voltage. The regulator changes the AC to DC voltage and also maintains that voltage at the proper level.

The Stator can be checked with the Ohms function on your meter. Locate and remove the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. You will see two or three pins inside.

Set the meter for low Ohms, and measure the continuity between these pins. 5 Ohms or less is what you are looking for here. Set the meter to the highest setting. With 1 lead attached to a metal part of bike check for continuity to each pin. You meter should read infinite, or no continuity. If these tests check out then your stator is fine. If there is a fault in any of these tests, then see your dealer

The regulator is the easiest of all to check. The regulator is made of solid state electronics and can’t be opened. Replace the regulator if everything else on the charging system checks out or if there is an overcharging situation.

On most Harley’s you will not know if the charging system is beginning to fail. The evidence shows up when you have dim lights or she just won’t start. There are aftermarket accessories that you can install on your bike that will tell you the current state of the charging system.

Save yourself some bucks here!! With a simple multimeter available from any Electronics parts store you can troubleshoot your charging system and check your battery and most likely repair any problems yourself.

Keith Nivon is an avid Harley Davidson Motorcycle Enthusiast! His website contains information on all things Harley Davidson. http://www.everything-harley-davidson.com is a great resource for anyone who shares a passion for Harley Davidson Motorcycles. Have a look at http://www.everything-harley-davidson.com for more information.